Posted: Oct 07 2014
Hemming knits can be the trickiest part to get looking right. Most commercial knits will have a coverstitch hem and occasionally a flatlocked or overlocked roll hem. Domestic coverstitch machines are very cool but expensive and have a limited function in a home setting. Coverstitching is such a standard on knit hems alternative to this stand out. Our thoughts are it doesn’t have to replicate a commercial finish it just needs to look slick. So here are some hot tips on hemming knits at home.
Hemming with a sewing machine.
The closest to a coverstitch is the twin needle. They give a little bit of stretch to you sewing and have a zig-zag like finish on the underside of your sewing. They are meant to do pin-tucks and can raise the channel in between the two rows of stitching. If you loosen the tension it helps flatten the bump. The needles come in a variety of widths the narrower will produce a flatter stitch also but looks a bit narrower than commercial coverstitch.
Other stitch patterns using a 4mm twin needle.
The Pattern Fantastique, hem finish of choice is currently a pre-set decorative stitch on our domestic machine. Featured on the Aeolian Tee/ Dress. The shape looks like a triple zig-zag it has heaps of stretch and is approximately 8 mm wide. It’s not quick to do but looks great.
Hemming with your overlocker.
You can faux flatlock with your overlocker or use the wrong side up and get a dashed stitch look. This is one that we would recommend being selective with If it’s right it can look really great but when is not quite right it looks bit stringy and raised. Testing and adjusting until it is the right tension for your fabric and playing with the stitch density is essential.
Check out our instructions on Faux Flatlocking.
Another option is the overlocker roll hem.
Again when its right it can really work, but not recommended for most. The main issue with the roll hem is that can pull away from the fabric. Secondly it really likes to ripple (aka lettuce leaf) the edges and at its worst can look a bit careless.
On the upside it is so simple is can compliment a pared back, minimal garment and can be used with rubber elastic for lingerie and sport wear.