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Joining seams on Knits. Which stitch to choose?

Posted: Oct 07 2014

Sewing seams on a knit fabric is surprisingly straight forward.

On a very basic machine a tiny zig-zag stitch is your best option. Adjust your zig-zag stitch length and width to very short and narrow.  Do a test row and stretch the fabric to see if any cracking occurs.

If you have a stitch on your machine that looks like continuous lightening bolt. This stitch is also excellent for seams.

Another stitch on some sewing machines is the triple stretch stitch, this stitch was really intended to sew curved seams in woven that need a bit of ease and super strength. It's very strong and stretchy but using will chew up the light fabrics, but is great for swimwear.

Most knits don’t need the edges finished so one row to join your pieces is usually enough.

For joining seams the hands down winner is the 4 thread Overlocker. It is able to stretch without breaking thread and finishes seams all in one. Overlockers with 3 threads will need additional seaming done on a domestic machine. Overlockers that have a differential feed, it is much easier to prevent seams from warping when sewn. It can also do a Faux Flatlock for joint and hemming knits, check out the instructions for that here.


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