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Pattern Fantastique
Pattern Fantastique
Pattern Fantastique

Blog - Technique Fantastique

  • How to add that Ruffle in the Glacial Neck seam

    Posted: Aug 14 2017

    The Glacial Ruffle.  So it is deep winter and the light is low and the internal struggle might be knocking at the door. I have a weapon against the winters SAD's -  Stay warm and Ruffle up.   The Glacial is an excellent clean base to add a ruffle with out competition of other design features. Have a look at the blog post on Ruffle making to learn more about what ruffle type could work for your fabric. For this Ruffle Glacial I was hoping to do a single layer ruffle with a raw rolled edge, but this fabric was unrolling and It looked a bit too raw. So I went for a folded ruffle and the bulk wasn't a problem. To get the ruffle down the side of the skivvy I had to alter my usual Knit Neck Band Insertion method. The key differences are  firstly, the CB Skivvy seam went to the wearers...

  • Ruffletastique- How to make a ruffle from scratch.

    Posted: Aug 14 2017

    Ruffle Making

    It's pretty clean state of affairs here at Pattern Fantastique HQ.  Minimalism to the max but every now an then some well placed glamour is required, some extra texture, an extremely feminine feature enough to flood the pleasure centres...  Hear a well placed ruffle calling your name? This is the tutorial on how to make a ruffle. Here is also a tutorial on how to insert one in the Glacial Skivvy.  Placement The two key differences in placement to consider; Is the ruffle? Continuous  e.g. Running the circumference of a hem. or Inserted   With a start and finish. On the edge of a collar that has an opening, over a shoulder but not under the arm or in our Glacial example down an neckline and most of the shoulder seam.  Ruffle Density and Length  The issue most likely to occur with ruffle construction is the additional bulk added to a seam warping the...

  • Tee-Shirt Construction.

    Posted: Jun 02 2017

    This Tee-Shirt Tutorial will be the basis for a series of Tee-Shirt Patterns that Pattern Fantastique will continue to release.  The latest Glacial Tee comes with multi-sized pattern  & cutting sheet.  The sewing instructions is this screen based tutorial,  with links to other knit sewing instructions so you can smash out all your Tee-Shirt needs. Fabric preparation. Knits are the one fabric type I don't pre-wash. This is to avoid warping which can make cutting a pesky task.  I do expect shrinkage to happen after washing a finished garment, this mostly effects the length. The stretch should maintain fit across the body.  If you are concerned about lengths and shrinkage I suggest lengthening garments by  2.5 cm or 3-5% of what you would like your finished length to be.  If you have the space lay your fabric flat when cutting knits as opposed to folded this will give you better scope to find...

  • Knit Neck Band Tutorial.

    Posted: Apr 18 2017

    Knit neck band tutorial

    My favourite go to method of finishing a knit Neck Band. This can be added to a woven body as just the Neck Band needs to be a knit to finish a neck or armhole. You can use it as a speedier alternative to binding. Firstly what kind of knits?   Fibre Content: I alway prefer "natural" fibres, Wool, Cotton and Silk or half way fibres like Viscose, Modal, Cupro and Rayon. These fabrics are Vegetable based but very processed.Petroleum based fabrics do not always like to play by the rules they generally want to return their original shape and can be difficult to work with. Nylon, polyester etc. Lycra blends are do-able but with high levels of lycra more than 5% the fabric will want to retract. This will work against what we are trying to achieve. Smaller amounts of Lycra,  especially in very light fibres, with little natural memory, will balance out...

  • Shearling Genoa

    Posted: Oct 10 2016

    Genoa Tote sewing pattern, Shearling re-fashioned patchwork.

    It’s suppose to be spring here and it has been raining and freezing ridiculousness. But maybe I have made the best winter bag ever which makes up for a vitamin D deficiency, right? Every day of shivery chill I’ll be able to relish this fluffy being. Here’s my latest Genoa. This bag is an invitation for experimentation. It’s already easy to make and there’s no fitting required.  It all began when I found a shearling jacket at my new favourite op shop on the discount rack out the front. This op shop is community run and the prices can be a bit random to say the least, it really depends on which volunteer has done the tags that week. I could see this gem had been under valued. The jacket was 90’s shearling sport coat, suede outer, lamb fur inner. Best gunmetal grey ever. The styling had some minimal norm core...

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