Fitting your Celestial Dress plus FBA & dart construction

Choosing the right size for your Celestial Dress-

The main fit point for the Celestial is the yoke line.
First, we need to check the yoke line compared to your usual size.
Start with the yoke line on the pattern and follow the next step to see where it will sit on you.
The front and back lengths from shoulder seam to yoke seam are as follows.
 Size Shoulder seam to front yoke seam Shoulder seam to back yoke seam Yoke circumference finished measurement 
6

18.3 cm  

7 3/16"

22.2 cm

8  3/4"

76.4 cm

30 1/16"

8

18.8 cm  

7 5/16"

22.7 cm  

8  15/ 16"

81.4 cm

32 1/16"

10

19.3 cm  

7 5/8"

23.2 cm  

9  3 /16"

86.4 cm

34"

12

19.8 cm  

7 13 /16"

23.7 cm  

9  5/16"

91.4 cm

36"

14

20.3 cm

8"

24.2 cm  

9 1/2"

96.4 cm

37 15/16"

16

20.8 cm

8 3/16"

24.7 cm  

9  3/4"

101.4 cm  

39 15/ 16"

18

21.3 cm

8  3/8"

25.2 cm

9  15 /16"

106.4 cm  

41 7/8"

20

21.7 cm

8 9/16"

25.7 cm

10  1/8"

111.4 cm

43 7/8"

22

22.1 cm  

8 11/16"

26.1 cm  

10  1/4"

116.4 cm

45 13/16"

24

22.5 cm  

8 7/8"

26.5 cm  

10  7 /16"

121.4 cm  

47 13/16"

26

22.9 cm  

9"

26.9 cm  

10" 

125.4 cm  

49 3/8"


Mark the same measurements on your body with a bit of tape or pen. You will need some help to mark the back.

Measure around your above bust hold the tape at this depth and note the measurements.

Compare this measurement to your chosen size, yoke measurements

 *You want the yoke line to have 1.5-2.5 cm • 9/16- 1" ease. ( "Ease" means a little bit bigger than your body)
If you are making it in a thicker fabric, go for 2.5 cm • 1"of ease.
If you have 4- 5 cm - 1 9/16 - 2"of ease and want the yoke narrower the most uncomplicated adjustment is to remove 3-4 mm • 6/16" off the centre front  and centre back fold lines. Including the yokes and facings.
Bust measurementsThe bust is the next critical fit point, it will fit most up to an "E cup" but as cup sizing is wildly different from brand to brand and cup sizing standards do not always translate to garment fits, I recommend taking your own measurements.

To check the pattern has enough room in the bust for you?

First, establish your bustline (nipple) depth to compare where your bust line sits in the Celestial dress.

Measure vertically from your centre shoulder line - where a bra strap might sit to your bust line.
Note measurement =

Now horizontally measure front bust line, from where your side seams should sit over the width of your bust. Half this measurement as you are working on half the pattern
Note measurement=

Celestial drafting You need to measure the same points on the pattern to compare.

Lay front yoke and front skirt out flat. Measure the same distance Vertically from centre shoulder to yoke line- excluding the seam allowances.
Then measure the remainder of your bust depth on the skirt.

Draw a horizontal line straight from the CF fold line that is the same depth as your bust line.

Measure the front horizontal bust line on the pattern. The pattern should be 5 mm • 3/16" to 1 cm • 3/8" bigger than your bust, for the front only. You are still working on just half of the front.

If it's bigger this is fine, the yoke will fit, and the skirt will fall nicely. If the pattern is smaller, you can add a dart to create the extra room.Celestial drafting Continue with these steps to do an FBA and dart creation on the celestial dress.

Measure the distance between your bust points (aka nipples). Half this measurement and mark clearly along the horizontal bust line from the centre front fold on the pattern.

Now draw a vertical line through the bust line from the hem to the yoke line.

Draw a new line from side seam to bust point.
You can start the line technically anywhere along the side seam, but the angle created by the dart line will impact the dart depth and subtle shaping. For beginners, a 2-5 cm •  13/16 "- 2" below the bustline is an excellent place to start.Celestial drafting Cut the new dart line to bust point and continue cutting across the bust line to CF Fold line.

Cut into the vertical line that travels through the bust point from hem to yoke.

Now we can open the bust to add in the required width and if needed depth for your bust.

How much?

With your previously measured front bust (half) add ease of .5 cm -1 cm.
You need to widen the bust line to measure the same (excluding 1 cm seam allowances).

If you are adding more than 1.5 cm • 9/16", it's better to distribute this over two darts. Otherwise, they will be too deep and look clunky.

You are keeping the hem and yoke line connected. Pivot the top and bottom sides out until the gap created is the width of what you want to gather—pivoting from the 1 cm • 3/8 " seam line, do not the cut edge of the pattern.

Now add length to the bust by opening adding equal amounts to the bust line length. Separate the vertical bustline and make a gap of the same size as one added across the bust which will deepen the dart again.

Draw your dart in from side seam to bust point.

The bust point remains in the same distance from centre front and top of the yoke.

Check each leg of the dart is the same length, add to the side seam if they are uneven.

Draw a line in the Centre of the dart to bust point.
Shorten dart length between 2.5cm - 4 cm  • 1"- 1 9/16" 
The Yoke line may need a reshape.
It's ok if the curvature has changed. Just skim off bumps.Celestial drafting
Fold dart up with dart excess folded toward the hem.
Trim dart tails to align with side seam - this is called proving the dart.

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