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How to do a Faux Flatlock, for hems and joining seams

Posted: Oct 07 2014

Faking a flatlock can get addictive. It seems like a little magic trick, the first time you try it you will wonder how on earth it will look any good and then all the stitches slide into place!

It can be used in many applications, stretch, wovens, joint seams and hemming. It's perfect for when you need a super stretchy seam. We love it used inappropriately on sheer silks and chunky wools.

Here are instructions for joining seams, joining really strong seams and hemming. Try it out on The Aeolian Tee / Dress.


Setting up your machine.

  1. Drop the cutting blade.
  2. Remove the left needle.
  3. Loosen the other needle tension to almost the entire way.
  4. Loosen the upper looper slightly.
  5. Tighten the lower looper to almost the entire way.

The exact figures vary for machine and fabric type.

Here is an example of the settings my machine likes.


A. Prepare fabric for joining seams - extra flat.
The fabric seams are butted up edged to edge with this stitch.
1. Remove all seam allowances.
   Got to sewing method below.


B. Prepare fabric for joining seams - extra strong.

This method overlaps fabric for extra strength but comes with a bulkier seam.

1. Overlap seam allowances. 

  1. Sew flat.
  1. On both sides, fold back and trim seam allowances, to almost nothing. 

  1. Press.

Scroll down for sewing steps.


Prepare fabric for hemming.

The images in this tutorial make a faux-locked hem with the dashed line stitch on the right side out. 

The vertical stitched line is to illustrate, right side (twin needle), wrong side (underside of twin needle).

 1. Make the first fold for your hem, press and baste hem if necessary. It can be a pain to remove basting from under overlocking. But worth doing for the chaotic fabrics.

2. Make the 2nd fold here and press again where the overlocking will be. The fold and edge of fabric must be perfectly aligned (basting helps).  



1. Place fabric edges very close to the overlockers, presser foot, so that thread loops hang off the edge of fabric, left of the stitch width gauge . Right sides together for dashed line stitch and wrong sides together for flatlocked look.

2. Gently pull open.

3. Press stitches to set seam.



  • Posted by Camilla on December 01, 2014

    Wow, I love this, thanks for sharing. I have a Whistles jersey top that is hemmed in this way and I love the finish. I’ll give this a go.


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